Is leather sustainable?
Lately clients call me asking for design assistance using sustainable materials. When I ask specifically what they want sustainably, some know, others don’t, and many are misinformed. With most certainty I can say most of these clients want an ethical option which is an inspiring start.
The purpose of me writing about leather and it’s sustainable properties is not to sell you on leather. I get a lot of phone calls from people saying I want to create a sustainable product, and when I hear their story I feel compelled to give them the background so they can really think thru all their options. I thought I’d share what I’m learning, and discovering thru my journey of designing, and creating sustainable products.
Shoe design by Nalini Arora using Pirarucu leather on the wedge
If you’re a believer that animals should not be used for food and clothing, then leather is not an option. However, if you go the synthetic route with vegan leather, it’s basically plastic if I’m going to be super frank.
Synthetic leather is produced with different chemicals and has very different manufacturing processes. Bonding together a plastic coating to a fabric backing is the most common way to make faux leather. The types of plastic used in these coatings vary and that is what defines whether or not vegan leather is eco-friendly. The downsides of vegan leather are that they’re not the most beneficial to the environment, the manufacturing and disposal of PVC based synthetics let out hazardous dioxins, and vegan leathers don’t fully biodegrade. Don’t get me wrong, I know a few vegan suppliers that follow high standards. Many don’t use phthlates, formaldehyde, PVC, and have a list of ethical guidelines that they follow. Nonetheless, like leather it’s still not 100% friendly to our environment.
Shoe design by Nalini Arora using Pirarucu on the upper.
The best option in this case is to use plant-based leathers. Pineapple leather, apple leather, cactus leather, and many other plant-based leathers have less of an impact to the environment. However, even these plant-based options are not 100% friendly to our environment. For example, Piñatex who makes pineapple leather, uses petroleum-based resin to the coat their material.
Let’s go back to leather, although leather has negative impacts starting with killing animals, there are sustainable elements involved.
Cow leather is biodegradable. It’s extremely durable. Leather has longevity that plastic doesn’t. Leather that is made as a byproduct of the meat industry and tanned with vegetables is a pretty environmentally friendly, especially if you use it over and over.
Shoe design by Nalini Arora using Pararucu leather on the upper.
Other options in using leather as a sustainable option:
1. Dead stock: There are plenty opportunities to use scraps. Brands have canceled orders, and have leather sitting in a factory for a long time. Sell them to those want to reuse the leathers.
2. Vegetable tanned leather/Chrome free: Brands like ATP atelier from Sweden create leather products with vegetable tanned leather only out of Italy. They’re products are very beautiful, the quality is amazing, and most importantly it’s lasts a very long time. I have two bags, and I can say that they are going to be in my life for a very long time.
3. Wild caught leather: One of my favorites right now is from Nova Kaeru. They do have a plant based sustainable option called BeLeaf, but they also offer Pirarucu Fish Skin, and Salmon. Both of these are wonderful sustainable options and eco-friendly. Why? In the past Pirarucu was just used for their food in the Amazon. Their skin became an ecological waste, was thrown away, and caused environmental pollution. Today, the Pirarucu is fished following a very strict sustainable fishing standard which in turn protects the forests, wildlife, and the people who depend on them. You can read more about Nova Kaeru here.
Shoe designed by Nalini Arora using Salmon leather as a color block
In footwear, I feel like we are still finding our way to be more sustainable. Right now, when it comes to sustainability things are not perfect, just yet. Even the most environmentally conscious manufacturing processes will still have an environmental impact. The first step is heading toward the direction of sustainability, doing what’s best for your business, and your brand story. If you’re currently producing products that pretty much harm the environment there is an opportunity to start small and give back where you can.